The New Language of Scent: Beyond Perfume to a New Era of Identity, Experience and Innovation

Business General The New Language of Scent: Beyond Perfume to a New Era of Identity, Experience and Innovation From discovery minis to AI scent diagnostics, new consumer behaviours are reshaping fragrance growth PUBLISHED : 8 Nov 2026 at 00:05 WRITER: Maurizio Cavezzali, CEO and Co-Founder, Esxence; and Beatrice Balzarotti, Director, Italian Perfumery Institute and Head of Cultural Projects, Esxence BRANDED CONTENT Small Medium Large Share Facebook Reddit Copy Link For generations, fragrance was framed around a single idea: the signature scent. Today, that model is giving way to something more fluid. Consumers, particularly younger ones, are building scent wardrobes, rotating between fragrances to suit their mood, occasion, season and environment. They no longer want a fragrance that defines them; they want fragrances that reflect different versions of themselves. Fragrance also extends well beyond fine perfume to hair fragrance, body care, home scent, candles, incense, essential oils, aromatherapy and wellness rituals. Each creates an immediate emotional and sensory connection without requiring a visible transformation. The central shift is from ownership to exploration, and from traditional fragrance notes to mood, memory and personal meaning, as artistic perfumery, niche, indie, mass-market, home fragrance, wellness and personalised formats increasingly influence one another. Across Asia-Pacific, from Japan and South Korea to China, the next phase of growth will be driven by new products as well as discovery formats, personalised experiences, local brands, technology and experiential retail. Fragrance Becomes a Statement of Identity Across Asia-Pacific, consumers increasingly integrate fragrance as part of their identity and daily lifestyle rather than an occasional beauty purchase. They turn to scent for self-care, quality of life and subtle self-expression, selecting based on emotional and personal connection rather than brand recognition alone. Gen Z consumers in Japan and South Korea are frequent buyers, collecting scents for different moods and occasions. Similar to fashion, music and interiors, fragrance has become another way to express their individuality. In Japan, 37% of Gen Z and Millennials buy fragrance at least once a month, signalling a shift from occasional use towards routine self-expression and wellbeing. In South Korea, GRANHAND and Tamburins are building accessible luxury through scents themed around materials, moods and individuality. In China, where 48% of Gen Z buy fragrance at least once a week, according to Euromonitor, Guochao storytelling and local botanical notes such as osmanthus and tea are driving growth. Heiseey generated more than CNY 10 million in its launch year through Tibetan heritage storytelling, while a Pape Games otome-game scent sold over 80,000 bottles in its first week. These illustrate fragrance's growing appeal as an emotional, IP-driven collectible. Traditional gender codes are also becoming less relevant. Gender-neutral fragrances are outperforming more rigidly gendered offerings as consumers ask whether a scent feels right for them rather than which category it belongs to. Aesop, Diptyque, BYREDO and Taiwan's Coeurless connect scent with materials and mood while respecting local preferences for subtle, low-projection fragrance. The commercial outlook for premium fragrance is projected to reach US$891 million in 2026, substantially higher compared to the mass-fragrance segment at $99.2 million. Yet premium is no longer defined by price alone, but by craftsmanship, ingredient quality, cultural depth and creative distinctiveness. Consumers continue to value premium products, but increasingly expect a compelling emotional, experiential or functional reason to purchase. Niche Perfumery Moves from Margins to Mainstream This search for individuality is bringing niche and artistic perfumery to a much wider audience. At Esxence, we have observed consumers increasingly choosing authenticity over visibility. They are less interested in buying a fragrance simply because it is popular and more interested in discovering a scent that feels personal, meaningful and reflective of their identity. Over 16 editions of Esxence, we have seen artistic perfumery grow into a dynamic cultural force. Unlike commercial fragrances developed primarily around broad recognition, artistic perfumes begin with an authentic creative purpose. Niche houses typically release fewer, more considered creations, allowing them to preserve the integrity of their ideas, materials and craftsmanship. As the audience expands, access becomes critical. Minis, travel sizes and discovery sets are more than smaller products: they are strategic discovery tools. They lower the barrier to entry, reduce the risk of committing to a full bottle and encourage consumers to explore unfamiliar brands and olfactory styles. The micro-sizing of luxury therefore supports accessibility and experimentation without diminishing the value of the full-size creation. This flexibility is particularly valuable in a category that cannot be fully understood through an image or product description. Fragrance needs time on the skin to develop, reveal different facets and interact with personal memory. A discovery set respects that process. It gives the consumer space to connect with a scent before deciding whether it belongs in their wardrobe. Education is equally central to this transition. For many years, consumers were taught to choose perfume primarily through brand names, imagery and advertising. Today, there is greater curiosity about ingredients, composition techniques, perfumers and the story behind a creation. The more consumers train their olfactory sensitivity, the better they can recognise nuance, understand their preferences and make conscious choices rather than simply follow a trend. Technology Can Guide Discovery, but Emotion Must Lead The widening selection of fragrances creates a new challenge: choice. What we see at Esxence is that consumers are no longer simply buying a perfume, they are drawn to the story behind it. This is changing how they discover and choose fragrance. Personalisation, AI-assisted tools and immersive retail can guide them through an expansive and complex world of scents. In Japan, AI-powered recommendation tools and discovery platforms are emerging. KAORIUM translates scent preferences into colours and words and has expanded from @cosme TOKYO to Tokyu Department Store beauty zones in Shibuya. Meanwhile, NOSE SHOP's partnership with iRomaScents offers AI-led recommendations for KO-GU. BYREDO's three-floor Omotesando flagship, PARFUMIER PRIVÉ's bespoke salon in Osaka and Maison Margiela Fragrances' memory-focused Omotesando concept show physical retail becoming a space for storytelling, personalisation and emotional discovery. Hetras' Myeong-dong flagship in South Korea has become a viral destination attracting more than 90% international visitors. GRANHAND connects fragrance with culture and community through custom name-stamping, literary and photography contests and music playlists. In China, Douyin livestream commerce, Xiaohongshu social discovery and sampling are driving viral brand growth, while immersive hotel collaborations turn retail into a space for cultural connection. Yet technology works best when it supports emotion rather than replacing it. Fragrance must be smelled, felt and understood. No scent has a universal meaning: the same note may evoke a family memory or a culinary tradition, and recommendation systems may simplify that complexity. This is why education is essential, as consumers who know more about ingredients, craftsmanship and creators can choose with more confidence. The future of retail lies in integrating digital tools with sensory discovery, making the discovery experience, not just the product, more personal and meaningful. Technology can help us find a fragrance; experience